![]() |
![]() |
The original throwing knives were part of farming devices used to turn the soil and prepare it for planting. When the Emporer forbade peasants from carrying standard weapons such as spears, swords, etc. these farmers began using the tools they had instead. (IE: the kama was a hand sythe, nunchakus were devices for threshing rice, etc.) What we know today as throwing stars were devices which were used to turn the soil and prepare it for planting. You can follow their lead... If you search the large flea markets you can find the gardening devices such as the Garden Weasle, and similar items. By cutting free the individual pieces, (stars), you have several throwing stars. BEWARE However, some other versions are often made of cheap pot metal. While they will work fine on a target such as cardboard, they will eventually break if used on wooden targets. No big loss, since I paid $1 for the last set I bought. If you use some epoxy cement, (I use a brand called C-7), and cement one or two large washers through the hole in the middle, then put in a bolt and nut and tighten it, (using more cement between the nut and the washer) you can add some nice weight to your "throwing star". Make sure the bolt fits the hole tightly or it could slip and throw off the balance. Here is a picture of one of the most recent ones I purchased. ![]() The "earth turning device" (I don't remember what they are called), normally had three heads with two "stars" per head. One head was missing so I got four stars for one dollar! (and a nice fighting stick, the handle). Before you go searching, get a magnet of some type. If it sticks well to the "star" you have a good steel one. If it sticks lightly, it's a pot metal alloy. If it doesn't stick at all, it's probably cast aluminum. Either of these will work, but the steel is more durable and will last longer. Don't discount the others, however, weighted and sharpened, they can be used on a foam archery target quite well. They will stick in wood, but will eventually break. ABOUT ME I have won numerous competitions in knife and tomahawk throwing and have been doing it since I was 8, (42 years). ![]() The "clip point" is one of my own design and is specially weighted and was custom made for me. ![]() Above is a Rimpler "Black River" throwing knife. In my opinion, the best on the market. ![]() The tomahawk is one that was custom designed and investment cast 440 steel made by a Cherokee friend of mine, Jim Grayeagle. I sell them because there is no better made hawk on the market. It's light, tough, and accurate. It's also lifetime guaranteed. As for knives, I recommend a type I saw that had an elongated leaf shaped (almost spear-like) blade and a straight handle. The leather on the handles of my knives is there because they must have some type of historically correct material on the handle, a rule in the type of competitions I take part in. It isn't necessary for throwing. I hope this info and pictures are of some use to you. Article Contributed by: Roger Scarbrough IamaUSAFvet@netscape.net http://users.erols.com/scarcom/ It's free, and there's no obligation. |
![]() CLICK HERE "Learn how to adjust for more accurate and successful sticking using the simplest, most effective throwing system ever!" Click Here. FREE STUFF CLICK HERE for FREE 101 Knife Throwing Tips Info-Pak Want hundreds of great knife throwing tips, ideas, articles and interviews with some of the biggest names in the sport of knife throwing? Get our FREE, twice-a-month Great Throwzini Online Newsletter. Just click below and send. CLICK HERE for FREE Online Newsletter or send e-mail to: bigfishtips@gmail.com with SUBSCRIBE in the Subject Line. I respect your privacy and will never share or sell your e-mail address to anyone. |